Horst, dusty fashion and elegant
Horst was born in Germany, in 1943 moved to the United States, was one of the pioneers of fashion photography.The Victoria and Albert museum with a called "horst: photographer legend and style" photography exhibition, salute to a generation of master.
Horst name Mr Paul Albert Bohrmann, was born in Germany in the early 20th century.This he going to do in the future an architect, a youth in Paris the mistake with the VOGUE, chief photographer yining into George Horace - Xu En (George Hoyningen - huneue)
Barefoot beauty New York in 1941
The meeting changed horst life path.Soon he became assistant of the Xu En and intimate lover, even as a model in the lens of the latter.George Horace yining into - Xu En most classic works - a photo show a youth back to the camera overlooking the beach - including the robust model is by horst guest.In addition, Xu En also professor horst many knowledge about photography, and introduce him to the fashion magazine world of important characters.
Hooded lisa, New York, 1940
In 1932, horst formally signed with the French fashion magazine,
started his career heyday.French VOGUE published his first turned photographer early test work, followed by the United States version of VOGUE also sent a shot invitation to him.In the late Xu En and VOGUE editor after falling out and stormed out, horst replace his position, as a new fashion aesthetic definer that era.
Because he didn't used to the restriction of traditional concept and subject to the constraints, horst will advocate the Bauhaus experiments geometry, the bizarre and surrealism art deco sharp fuses in together, formed a unique avant-garde, at an astonishing drama, elegant entertainment makes everyone feel deeply shocked.Horst will be the goddess of women became of his lens, they are a bit like a statue, with Greece Olympia of silence.And 40 s of the 20th century, many photographers are to imitate his way of photography.However, endemic to hoth peculiar feature of difficult to imitate, in a formal portrait photography with a feeling of tranquility, a touch of elegance.Horst work means fashionable and elegant in black and white photography, means that the studio in the atmosphere, means that the contour and shadow.
Mambo corsage, Paris, 1939
Horst's most famous work, is 1939 the mambo pincher bra."At that time we are carried out in the middle of the night shooting, did not leave the studio at four o 'clock in the morning. Wait until seven o 'clock in the morning, I have already take up Normandy, then transfer to the train in
the United States."The horst compromised by German in Paris before filming the last picture, while acting in a hurry, but therefore added some natural and subtle tension.In this photo, model to back off, most of the body and face are hidden in the black and white light and shadow, only that one Mainbocher bodice chalaza behind half is untied, seem to fully faint inexplicable sense of haste.This picture because of ingenious composition proportion in the later history of photography often used by people to imitate.
Although horst is black and white style is embodied in but when color photography becomes the mainstream of fashion image, he also produced many works which never forgets anything.The June 1940 issue of VOGUE magazine covers, horst was taken off the model Lisa Fonssagrives use body movements to pose with the words "VOGUE" posture, dark blue sportswear and black background model tranquil expression;The next year another cover, it shows a model with the pink ball with two legs.The final ball in finished products are cleverly used to replace the position of the letter O in "VOGUE", more show the classic works.
Horst is not only a fashion photographer, he is a master of interior architecture photography, photography works include the still life and plants, he will be in black and white fashion to an extreme, even someone will horst compared to craft exquisite craftsman.When society
changes, horst shape exquisite atmosphere also appears inappropriate up soon.What's more, very quickly in the ebb and flow of fashion, people pursuit of image effect also is often cast.In the fifties and sixties of the 20th century, Richard Avedon, William Klein, David Bailey et al., fills moves the feeling and the decadent style become the latest must-haves in the fashion editor, horst nature was out of the tide.
For horst, get away from the trend and does not seem to be so painful, it is important to fully aesthetics constantly insist, not by others to tell myself to go what way: "may be for some people, the word grace has become somewhat strained, melodramatic. But as far as I'm concerned, or it is a kind of appeal of personality, one has nothing to do with how much you wealth or false, really achieve ideal state unity of body and mind."