3 Plug Ignition Installation Instructions
Please read instructions fully before starting. Parts and tools required are: ~20 inches of
black wire and 20 inches of red wire, 1 mail connector that fits the wire harness yellow
wire, 1 eye loop wire connector, a wire stripper and crimper.
1. The stock coil location is two small for these two new coils. Some fabrication is
required to mount the new coils in another place, and generally the further away
from the CDI box the better. Don’t mount the coils under the seat or behind the
engine. The coils create electrical interference with the CDI which leads to
a. The best place to mount the coils is up in front of the gas tank. Typically
there is plenty of room in front of the gas tank where the stock radiator fan
and thermostat sit (only works if you aren’t running a fan or thermostat)
2. After the coils are securely mounted make sure they have a good ground. The
mounting bolts connect the ground for the coils to the frame.
3. The wires for the stock coil have one
yellow wire and one black wire as
seen in the picture to the right. The
yellow wire is the positive wire and
the black is ground.
4. First a splice for both the ground and positive wires is needed. To do this an “eye
loop” connector is needed. It should be big enough to fit on the mounting bolts.
5. Cut two sections of black wire about
10 inches long (use longer if needed).
Then strip the wires so there is about
1/2” of bare wire showing. Twist the
two bare sections of the wire
together and then insert them in to
the “eye loop” connector, and crimp
the wires firmly in place. The end
result will look like the connector in
the picture to the right.
6. Once you have your negative wire connector made crimp an end to the other side
of the wires. This connector is supplied with the coils. There is a bag of red wire
connectors which comes with the coils. Use the 90 degree terminal connectors for
7. Run the black wires to the negative terminals and cut the wires to length (the
negative terminals are the ones without red dots). Then install one of the red wire
connectors supplied with the ignition coils onto the end of the black wire.
8. Install the negative cables that were just made, and you are now done with the
negative wiring aspect. The eye loop connector hooks onto the mounting bolts for
the coils along with the factory negative wire shown in the first picture. Both the
factory wire and the terminal wire created are installed on the same coil bolt.
9. The positive terminal cables will be made much like the negative cables. Instead
of using an eye loop connector a male connector that fits the stock wire harness
female connector will be utilized.
10. Cut two 10” sections of red wire (use
longer if needed). Strip about ?” of
wire on each end of the wire sections
you just cut. Twist the two bare
strips together and insert them into
the male connector. Crimp the
connector, and install into the wire
harness. Finish product should look
like the picture on the right.
11. Run the red wires up to the positive terminal on the coils (positive terminals have
red dots by them). Cut them to length and install the connectors supplied with the
coils. (use the straight red connectors)
12. Install the two wires you just made, and you are now done.
Notes on things to check:
1. Make sure you have the positive cables (the ones coming from the yellow factory
wire) connected to the positive terminals on the coils. The positive coil terminals
are marked with a red dot. If these get switch with the negative terminals damage
can be caused to the coils and the engine will not run correctly.
2. Heat shrink is highly recommended on the positive cables. Also the use of
electrical tap to ensure a tight seal is very important. Water damage can short out
the coils and cause electrical damage.