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International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard

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International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard

    International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard

    Global Organic

    Textile Standard

    Version 1.1

    Copyright: ? 2005 by 'International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard' All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or included into a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise) without written permission of International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard.

Table of contents

    1. Principles

    2. Criteria

    3. Minimum social criteria

    4. Quality assurance system

    List of additional fibres

    List of Abbreviations

    Amendment No.1

    Amendment No.2

     1. Principles (top)

     1.1. Aim of the standards

    The aim of these standards is to define requirements to ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer.

     1.2. Scope and structure

    These standards for organic textiles cover the production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, exportation, importation and distribution of all natural fibres. The final products may include, but are not limited to fibre products, yarns, fabrics and clothes.

    The standards focus on compulsory criteria only.

     1.3. Version

    thVersion 1.1 of the Global Organic Textile Standard (dated 19 October 2005)

     1.4. Label grading

    These standards provide for a subdivision into two label-grades. The only differentiation for subdivision is the minimum percentage of 'organic' / 'organic - in conversion' material in the final product. Labelling of products as 'in conversion' is only possible, if the regulation, on which the certification of the fibre production is based on, enables this possibility of such a labelling for the fibre in question and if it can be demonstrated that organic fibres are not available in sufficient quantity, quality or type.

    Final products, that are produced and manufactured in compliance with all compulsory criteria of these standards may be sold, labelled or represented as:

    1)a) "organic" or "organic - in conversion"

    respective

    b) "made with x % organic materials" or " made with x % organic - in conversion 1)materials"

    with regard to these standards.

    The certifiers shall secure in their respective licensing/certification agreements that the products produced according to the Global Standard are additionally labelled "Global Organic Textile Standard".

1) Definition 'In-conversion': A product from an operation or portion thereof, which has completed at least 12 months under

    organic management and is under the supervision of a certification body.

     2. Criteria (top)

     2.1. Requirements for organic fibre production

    Approved are natural fibres certified organic as well as fibres from conversion period certified according to recognised international or national standards and certified by any IFOAM accredited or internationally recognised (according to ISO 65) certifier. Certifying of products as 'in conversion' is only possible, if the regulation, on which the certification of the fibre production is based on, enables this possibility of such a certification for the fibre in question and if it can be demonstrated that organic fibres are not available in sufficient quantity, quality or type. Conversion nature of fibres must be stated as specified in chapter 1.4. of these standards.

     2.2. Requirements for material composition

2.2.1 Products sold, labelled or represented as "organic" or "organic

    in conversion"

    95% or more of the fibres - excluding non-textile accessories - must be of certified organic origin or from 'in conversion' period (with conversion nature of fibres being stated and restricted as specified in the chapters 1.4 and 2.1 of these standards). The remaining balance up to 5% may be made of non-organic fibres including regenerated and synthetic fibres as defined in annex. The remaining balance may not contain any conventional fibres of the same raw material that is used in organic quality in the same product (= no blending).

    2.2.2 Products sold, labelled or represented as "made with x % organic materials" or "made with x % organic

     in conversion materials"

    70% - 95% or more of the fibres - excluding accessories - must be of certified organic origin or from 'in conversion' period (with conversion nature of fibres being stated and restricted as specified in the chapters 1.4 and 2.1 of these standards). The remaining balance up to 30% may be made of non-organic fibres. The remaining balance may contain a maximum of 10% of regenerated or synthetic fibres as defined in annex. The remaining balance may not contain conventional fibres of the same raw material, that is used in organic quality in the same product (= no blending).

     2.3. Requirements for processing

     2.3.1. Separation and identification

    At all stages through the processing chain it has to be assured, that organic and conventional fibres are not commingled and that organic fibres are not contaminated. All organic raw materials must be clearly labelled and identified as such at all stages

    through the processing chain.

     2.3.2. Prohibited / restricted inputs in all production stages

Substance group Criteria 1)Permanent AOX Restricted: may not constitute more than 1% of any

    input

    Aromatic solvents Prohibited

    Prohibited (Chloro-) Phenols (as TCP,

    PCP)

    Prohibited are: Complexing agents and

    active detergents

    - APEO;

    - EDTA, DTPA and similar persistent complexing

Substance group Criteria

    agents;

    - LAS, -MES

    Prohibited Formaldehyde and other

    short-chain aldehydes

    Prohibited Genetically modified

    organisms (GMO's) and

    their derivates (including enzymes derived from

    genetically modified micro-

    organisms)

    Halogenated solvents Prohibited 2)Heavy metals Prohibited

    - General exception for Iron

    - Specific exception for copper: up to 5% in blue, 3)green and turquoise dyestuffs Flourcarbones Prohibited

    Quaternary ammonium Prohibited

    compounds

    An input is prohibited from use if at least one of the Other toxic substances

    following risk phrases is assigned to it:

    R40 (limited evidence of carcinogenic effect)

    R45 (may cause cancer)

    R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage)

    R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation)

    R60 (may impair fertility)

    R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child)

    R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility)

    R63 (possible risk to harm to the unborn child)

    R 68 (possible risk of irreversible effects) Other explicit prohibited Any substances, that are prohibited with a

    substances recognised internationally or a nationally valid

    legal character.

1) AOX is permanent, if the molecular structure of the input contributes halogenated organic compounds to

    wastewater generated during fibre processing

2) ''heavy metal free' as defined by ETAD

    3) The use of copper will be reviewed in 3 years with a view to withdrawing it

     2.3.3. Basic requirements for auxiliary agents and dyestuffs in all processing stages

    Parameter Criteria

    LD > 2000 mg/kg Oral Toxicity 50

    (minimum requirement) 1), EC, IC > 1 mg/kg LCAquatic Toxicity 505050

    (minimum requirement)

    Only allowed, if: Relation of biodegradability /

    eliminability (OECD 301, 2)302A, 302B/303A) to < 70% and > 100 mg/l

    aquatic toxicity (LC or 50

    EC or ICOECD 201, 202, > 70% and 10100 mg/l 5050; 1)203)

    > 95% and 110 mg/l 3)Substances, known to be bio-accumulative