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Shoe Upper Closing - National Institute of Technical Teachers ...

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Shoe Upper Closing - National Institute of Technical Teachers ...Shoe

    L.C-4

    NITTTR, Chennai 600 113.

    SKILL DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM

1. Sector : Leather and Leather Goods

    Shoe Upper Closing 2. Name and Code No. of the Trade :

3. Level : II

    4. Duration in hours : 3 months/ 12 weeks/ 480 hours

     th Standard+ Completed level I Course on 5. Entry Qualification/ Eligibility for : 8

    “Basic Stitching in Leather” admission

    Age: 16+ and below 35 years

    6. Employment opportunities : (1) Wage employment as Skilled

    Operators in

    - Leather footwear units

    - Non-Leather footwear units

    (2) Self employment in undertaking

    shoe upper closing job work

7. Job/ Trade Profile : ; Perform basic operations on various

     Pre-closing Machines

    ; Perform alignment of various

    components of sewing machines

    ; Perform different types of edge

    treatment

    ; Perform different types of seams in

    upper closing

    ; Closing of upper components of

    footwear

    Page 1 of 26

    8. Modules of Study and Time :

    allocation

    Time (in Hours) Module Title of the Module No. Theory Practical Total

    Tools and materials for shoe upper 1. 8 8 16 closing

    2. Preparation of shoe upper components 8 16 24

    3. Pre closing operations of shoe uppers 16 64 80

    Assembling and stitching of shoe upper 4. 32 216 248 components of various styles

    5. Maintenance of closing machines 8 16 24

    Quality control aspects in shoe upper 6. 16 40 56 closing

     Consolidation and Evaluation 8 24 32

     Total 96 384 480

    Trade:

    9. Content details of each module : Refer Appendices 1 to 6

    10. Guidelines for assessment and : (i) Mode of Assessment certification (A) Trade Test (Practical Exam) -Weightage

    70%

    (B) Theory (Written Exam)

    Weightage 15%

    (C) Viva (oral exam) Weightage 15%

    (ii) In conducting the trade test & viva

     an industrial expert should be

     involved.

    (iii) No. of Written Test 1

    (iv) No. of Trade Tests 3

    1) Pre-closing operations - Weightage

    20%

    2) Assembling of upper components -

    Weightage 35%

    3) Maintenance of closing machines -

    Weightage 15%

    (v) No. of viva 1

    Page 2 of 26

    11. Resource requirements :

     The following resources will be required for training a batch of 20 trainees.

    11.1 LIST OF MACHINES

    Sl. No Name of machine with specification details Quantity

    20 Flat bed Single Needle Lock Stitch roller feed Sewing 1. machine Complete with Head/ Table/ Motor/ Stand

    10 Post Bed, Single Needle, Lock Stitch Sewing Machine 2.

    Complete with Head/ Table/ Motor/ Stand / Roller Pressure Foot

    2 Post bed double needle lock stitching machine 3.

    2 Cylinder Bed, Single Needle, Lock Stitch Sewing 4.

    Machine with Unison Feed and Large Vertical Hook / Binding Stitching machine

    Complete with Head/ Table/ Motor/ Stand

    2 Zig-zag single needle stitching m/c complete with 5.

    Head/ Table/ Motor/ Stand and working lamp

    2 Strobel stitching machine 6.

    1 Upper splitting Machine 7.

    3 Skiving Machine 8.

    Edge folding Machine 2 9.

    Fusing machine (Rotary Ironing machine) 1 Vamp crimping Machine 1 Moccasin pre forming machine 1 Seam rubbing and taping machine 1 Eyeleting machine 1 Bench Grinding machine 1

    20 Flat bed Single Needle Lock Stitch roller feed Sewing 10.

    machine Complete with Head/ Table/ Motor/ Stand (Necessary spares to be provided along with each machine)

    Page 3 of 26

    11.2 Tools and Accessories

    S.No. Item Quantity 1. Cuddapa Stone 1 ?’x1’x 1” thick 20 nos. 2. Hammer head (200 gms) 20 nos. 3. Folding Hammer 20no 4. S.S.Scale 1’ 20 nos. 5. S.S.Scale 2’ 20 nos. 6. Shoe sizing tape 20 nos. 7. H.S.S. hacksaw blade1’x1/2” 20 nos. 8. Knife holder ?” 20 nos. 9. Oil stone 20 nos. 10. Hole punch 00-6 20sets 11. Rivet punch (small & medium) 20 nos. each 12. Eyelet punch 20 nos. 13. Oblong punch ?” 5 nos. 14. Thread trimmer 20nos. 15. Soldering stick 5 nos. 16. Adhesive can plastic 20 nos. 17. Scissor 8” 20 nos. 18. Cutting plier 3 nos. 19. Screw driver (small) 20 nos. 20. Bone folder 20 nos. 21. Needle 134-LR 80 300 nos. 22. Needle 134-35 LR 90 200 nos. 23. Needle 134 LR 90 300 nos. 24. Needle 134 LR 100 200 nos. 25. Needle 134 LR 110 100 nos. 26. Binding Gauge 14mm,16mm 2 nos. Each

    Page 4 of 26

    11.3 FURNITURE

    Item Quantity S.No

    .

    1. Assembling Table 3’X2’ 10 nos. 2. Wooden stool 50 nos. 3. White board 1 no.

    White board marker pens 16 nos. 4. (4 colors X 4)

    5. Instructor table 3 nos. 6. Instructor chair 3 nos. 7. Pigeon hole cupboards for students 3 nos. 8. Cupboards for raw material storage 5 nos. 9. Steel racks for raw material storage 5 nos. 10. Cupboards for finished goods storage 2 nos. 11. Plastic trays 1’X 1 ?’ X 5” 40 nos.

    11.4 CONSUMABLES

    11.4.1 Leather & Non Leather

    S.No. Item Quantity

    1. Upper Cut Components 100 Pairs

    Open footwear - 2 Models Each

    Close footwear - 4 Models Model

    2. Lining cut components 100 Pairs

    Open footwear - 2 Models Each

    Close footwear - 4 Models Model

    3. Leather cut components of Each 100

    basic exercise (varied Shapes ) Pairs

    Page 5 of 26

11.4.2 Grinderies

    S.No. Item Quantity 1. Rubber solution 5 litre tin 20 nos. 2. Neoprene adhesive 5 Lit Tin 5 nos. 3. Latex adhesive 5 Lit Tin 3 nos. 4. Singer oil 3/1- 5 litre tin 2 nos. 5. Nylon thread Aptan Tkt 40 black 20 cones 6. Nylon thread Aptan Tkt 60 black 20 cones 7. Nylon thread Aptan Tkt 40 brown 10 cones 8. Nylon thread Aptan Tkt 60 brown 10 cones 9. Handsewn thread (Moccassin) 200 mtrs. 10. Reinforcement tape 10 mm width 5 rolls 11. Reinforcement tape 2 mm width 5 rolls 12. Elastic tape 50 mtrs 13. Crepe rubber 5 sq. ft 14. Silver refill 20 nos. 15. Marking chalk 5 boxes 16. Eyelets 3 gross 17. Buckles 200 18. Foam material 2mm 10 mtrs. 19. Rubber bands 2 kg 20. A4 size plastic covers 100 nos.

    11.5 Space Requirement

    S.No. Item Size

    1. Raw material storage room 300 sft

    2. Training hall 3000 sft

    3. Finished goods storage room 300 sft

    Page 6 of 26

    11.6 Books/ Instructional Resources

1. Richard Daniels, (2003) ”Back to Basics Leather Manufacture”,

    Northampton- World Leather.

2. J.H.Sharphouse, (1995), “Leather Technicians Hand

    Book”,Northampton-World leather.

    3. TSK Mahadevan, (2001)”A manual on practical leather processing”,

    Chennai.-Indian Leather Publication.

    4. S.S. Dutta, (1980 )”Introduction to the Principle of leather

    Manufacture” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association.

5. S.S.Dutta, (1980) ” Physical Testing Of Leather” Kolkatta.- Indian

    Leather Technologist Association.

6. R.G.Miller, (1989) ”Manual of shoe making” England-Clarks ltd.

7. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), ”Comprehensive Footwear

    Technology’Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association.

8. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), ”Introduction to Modern Footwear

    Technology” Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS.

9. J.H.Thornton, (1970), ”Text book of Footwear Manufacture” London. -

    National Trade Press Ltd.

    10. S.S. Dutta, (1980), ”Introduction to the Principles of Leather

    Manufacture” Kolkata. -Indian Leather Technologist Association.

11. CLRI, (1998), ”Manual on Leather goods Manufacture” Chennai.-

    Central Leather Research Institute Publication.

    12. CLRI, (1998), Manual Pattern designing of Leather Garment”

    Chennai- Central Leather Research Institute Publication.

13. FDDI, (1992), “Manual The Skill of Skiving” , Noida.- Foot wear

    Design And Development Institute.

14. FDDI, (1992), “Manual The Art of Hand Folding” ,Noida.- Foot wear

    Design And Development Institute.

    15. FDDI, (1992), “The Skill of operating Single Needle Post Bed Sewing

    Machine”, Noida.- Foot wear Design And Development Institute.

    Page 7 of 26

    16. FDDI, (1992), “Essential of sewing”, Noida. - Foot wear Design And

    Development Institute.

17. FDDI, (1992),” The Art of Cutting and Clicking Operation” Noida.-

    Foot wear Design And Development Institute.

    19. SATRA NL, “Leather Stitching”, France - SATRA, New Zealand

    Leather and Shoe research Association.

20. SATRA NL, “Footwear Materials and process Technology”, France

    SATRA, New Zealand Leather and Shoe research Association.

    12. Any other information/ guidelines : 1. Major focus should be on Pre-closing

    for implementation and closing of footwear components.

    2. Factory visits to atleast three factories

    manufacturing Shoe Upper should be

    arranged.

    3. Focus should be on providing adequate

    practice for developing the skill, teaching

    related theory to the required extent.

    Page 8 of 26

    Annexure:

    List of Expert Members of the Curriculum Committee

S. Name, Designation and S. Name, Designation and

    No. Address No. Address

    Mr. V. KAMALAKKANNAN 1. 4. Mr. PON. SUBBAIAH Principal Lecturer Institute of Leather Technology Institute of Leather Technology C.I.T. Campus,

    C.I.T. Campus, Taramani, Taramani,

    Chennai 600 113. Chennai 600 113.

    Dr. S. MADHIVANAN 2. 5. Mr. R. SEKAR

    Scientist, Footwear Department Partner Central Leather Research Institute Orient Express Adyar, 26-B, Jawaharlal Nehru Salai Chennai 600 020.

    Ekkaduthangal

    Chennai 600 032.

    Dr. D. BRAHADEESWARAN 3. 6. Dr. K. GNANA PRABHU

     - Coordinator Technical Officer, Professor and Head Footwear Department Department of Policy Planning & Central Leather Research Institute Educational Research,

    Adyar, Chennai 600 020. NITTTR, Taramani,

     Chennai 600 113.

    Page 9 of 26

    Appendix I

    Module - 1

Tools and materials for shoe upper closing 1. Title of the Module :

    2. Module Competencies : On completion of the Module the trainee will be

    able to:

    (1) Select the appropriate tools for a given

    model of shoe upper closing

    (2) Identify patterns and components for

    different shoe upper styles

    (3) Identify various types of leather and non

    leather materials for assembling the

    shoe upper

    (4) Identify the accessories required for

    various styles of shoe upper

    3. Knowledge components (Theory) : ; Tools required for shoe upper closing

    ; Various types of leather and non leather

    materials

    ; Accessories for shoe upper closing

    - Needles and Threads

    - Reinforcement materials

    - Adhesives

    - Fittings and Fasteners

    ; Various patterns of shoe upper

    components

    ; Various components of shoe upper

    ; Notches in upper closing

    4. Practical Skills : Practice in

    (i) Identification of Patterns and details of

    the following

    - Underlay allowance

    - Folding allowance

    - Seam allowance

    - Notches

    (ii) Identification of various types of leathers

    and non leather materials.

    Page 10 of 26

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