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     HIM D E V0I8 No 1 January/February


    Mdernise, Or Else! Building The Abode of Gods, King of the New Lhasa Mountains, Himalaya You bound the oceans fromby John Grey

    east to west A northern yardstick To measure the Earth Kaltdasa (Kumara SambhavajThe modernisation offensive in Tibet today has largety Editor Kanak Mani Dtxit bypassed the Tibetans Associate Editor Manisha Aryai Bikas themselves.Photography Rauniar Kiran Shrestha Manager Balaram S harm a Mamata Administration Manandhar

    Cover picture by Kevin Bubriski Subscription Rales shows a Lhasa child with a mock Only Bank-drafts acceptable for subscription orders made 10 Himal in Nepal. Do NOT send cash iri mail. Chinese ?nilitary headgear.

     2yrs Individual 1 year An Elegant Return 20 Nepal NRs 220 4oa by Roger L. Plunk India IRs 140- ?60 Bhutan NLJ 175 330 U$ OlherS, Asian Countries 12 20 North America 22.50 40 u$ The Dalai Lama's presence in Germany DM 60 90 Lhasa would help the Tibetan United Kingdom & Ireland E 20 35 people face their day to day Netherlands D)l 45 80 problems with confidence and Elsewhere U$ 25 45 resolve.institutional Nepal NRs 1100 a oo India IRs 260 : son -Bhutan 330 640 Nu Other S. Asian Countries U$ 25 45 North America U$ 35 60 23 Germany DM 70 120 United Kingdom & Ireland ? 30 50 Netherlands Dll 100 ISO Elsewhere 45 SO Ut Kang Rlmpoche Trashed Send subscriptions & rotate tspondenteto: ii and Commercialised rnrrr South Asia: P.O. Box 42, Laliipur. Nepal uy junn v. oeiieiid 3 [1619771 523845, fax 977 1 521013), or Briefs Central News Agency, 23/90 Connaught Haiti Cuisine, Kuinauri Fashion Circus, New Delhi 110001 Biofencing Elephants Japan: Akio Horiucl.i, Climbing Unopened Peaks P.O.BoxS, Kiyose, Tokyo, 204 Japan. Tourism, Bali Style Australia: Indra San, 12 Norfolk SI., Paddingtsn 2021, Sydney, Australia. Placename: Kanchenjunga North America: Barbara Bella & Associates, Notes from the Karakoram 500 Sansome Sireat, Suite 101, PO Box 470758 San Francisco, CAB4H7 26 Voices United Kingdom & Ireland: Jcli Girl (Rat: H), 221 Ashly Gatdens, Emery Hill Street, London SWI 1PA Asia's holiest place is 33 Review 1994 Himal The Netherlands: C. F. de Stoppelaar, turning into a dirty Foundation Himalaya, Keizersgracth 463, Disneyland. 35Index 1017DKAmsterdam 29 Switzerland: Helene Sngg, Tamenweg 18, 36 Himalaya Mediafiie CH-3073, Guemilgen, Switzerland Europe: Dutga Press (Himal), LuitpoUsir. 20. 39 Know Your Himal D-82211, Herrsching, Germany Opinion 44 Kathmandu, Uailo Himal? 1995 is published every two months by KImal Association, PO Box 42, Patan Dhoka, Laliipur, Nepal Kathmandu 41 Tel: 9771533845, Fax: 521013,ema>: himal? A Photo Essay 47 Abstracts LbaryotCongrass Card, Catalogue Number 88 912882 49 ISSN401296Q4 Mail PrinSng: Jagadamba Offset Pvt. Ltd. Tel: 521393. No Sops for Uttarakhand Intellectual Challenge Citizenship Made Simple Gurkha Sorrow Katha

    by Prem Krishna Gongaju 52 Abominably Yours

     Vajra (literally-flash of

    lighting), is an artists'

    condominium, a transit

    home for many,

    providing a base during

    months of hibernation

    and creative inspiration.

    Its isolation, graphic

    splendour and peaceful

    ambience, make an ideal

    retreat from the clock of


    Ketaki Sheth

    Inside Outside

    I stayed a week at the

    Vajra, by which time I

    had become so fond of it

    that I stayed another.

    John Collee

    The London Observer

    in Kathmandu,

    the Vajra

    Swayambhu, Dallu Bljyaswori, PO Box 1084, Kathmandu

    Phone 271545, 272719 Fax 977 1 271695 Telex 2309 HVGHPL

    B f

    Himalayan Chic for the Upper Crust

     alti cuisine is all the rage-in Umesh Dwivedi, Darjeeling A good question to ask. Critics and "I B would be; is there a'Balti' London, and Kinnauri environmental activist and made ???:? restaurant in Skardu? fashions have caught the i ma gi editor of the magazine others a Would the locals recognise na t > o n of Delhi's beautiful Himalayan Paryaxwran. "I have fence in ihe.. what is put in front of people. The Himalaya is ........................................ ????? been experimenting with it in of the 1them? suddenly coming in from the my farm which is in the succucold as far as the Upper Crust But who cares about Bhabar area in Garhwal. It was lent is concerned. Should We be authenticity when there is extremely effective, I have centuworried? Or should we just money to be made! Today, suggested it to the Government ry have fan?! even British pubs deign to of India and the Government plant Sunday of Calcutta reports have the odd Balti Jamb or {Agapthat "the Balti curry is chicken on the menu, arid eamerisweeping the British Isles in a : . range of frozen, catia); the 1990s the way tandoori did readyrcooked dishes have TThis two decades earlier". Balti been added to Marks and plant restaurants have sprouted all Spencers'curry department. belonover, and at last count there Scene shifts to New gs to were over 100 in Birmingham Delhi's Siri Tort auditorium; the K alone. The dish is a type of where the National familKashmiri curry which is served Institute of Design is y presenting its ^nnual hot in karahis. It is more Asian Agav

    collection. Models shashay nouvelle cuisine than authentic aceae :down the ramp and flashguns ..??. fare from the Northern audience cc>ncededand ^ go off as the graduating class Territories. has a that the most of India's topmost fashion rosettstriking fashion school showed off their work.; e of statement was that


    s sardarji Tejinder ?= ??????? :?Elephant Menace? which Si nghj whose have collection Was,'. Try Bio-Fencing 1sharp' entitled margi"KirmaurThe I am enclosing an entirely r rts. Pream Revisited". The of West Bengal." Drawing... .;.... ., , elephDwivedi calls his new inspiration from ants concept -bioifencing' and it is the weaving ".. were intended to create a barrier traditions of the notabagainst encroachment into Kinnauri peasants, le to Singh paraded a cross summerand it jas winter collection they which included a cannocentrepiece which t raise was an adaptation of the dqhru their hill sari. He and included

    traditionaUy crafted brooches,

    with motifs for shawls, caps

    and shoes borrowed from

    Buddhist and Hindu symbols

    such as the swastika and trisul.

    The natural greys of

    Himalayan w6ol without dye

    li villages and fields by wild Inew concept in controlling elephants, a grobjem in West the elephant menace," writes Bengal and Assam.

    . S.,:..

    "looks classy and lends

    sophistication to the costume",

    explained Singh to the Pioneer

    critic. The designer bagged

    four awards at the gala.

    If Kinnaurand Baltistan

    have made it, can Dolpoand

    Lo be far behind?

    feet very high and were scared

    of the sharp margins. Apart

    from preventing the elephant

    menace, this plant is a very

    good soil binder and has fibre

    value, which will also promote

    the rural economy."

    Dwivedi also suggests

    certain "alternative plants"

    which can be used for

    bio-fencing: prickly pear, aloe

    and yucca.

    H1MAL January/February 1995

     ,w ? *

    .... .... Sow to use wormsfc produce . If the Andeans Can, fertiliser arid how to dry"

    vegetables. In Colombia they I Why Can't the Himalayans? observed the finer points about

    'raising pigs and livestock legumes and indigenous fruits. Cooperation among people's marketing. The Peru group used its prize groups strung out across the Wecan only peer over at money tti visit women's groups this sistei- region of the Andes, Himalaya seems harder to start in Ecuador and Colombia, and wonder when inter-people and sustain than in the Andean From the peasant women in exchanges will begin to happen region, where cross-cultural Ecuador, the Peruvians learned on this hemisphere. and exchange programmes

    appear to happen

    spontaneously. One such Sunder Lai's Rebuke programme, as reported in the

    Sunder Lai BahugOria, Chipko guru andTehri's nemesis, has aimed United Nations magazine Cooperation South, was a recent his walking stick at NGOs arid NGSism io aDeeembar 12 note entitled

    "women and food technology NGOs of the poor countries. "To the Social Workers of Himalaya". Excerpts from his lengthy

    contest". They create a favourable broadside: UNIFEM, the organisation atmosphere for the spreading which supports women's and thriving of their mercantile I was fortunate to live with (communism of China) of the activities, estimates that the civilisation. three dedicated souls to the north with the stronger Andean women produce, These new institutions service of the Himalaya, ideology of Gram swaraj,but process and sell close to 80 required a new type of workers, Martyr Shri Dev Suman, Mira the invasion of social work percent of the region's food, technical and professional, and Bchn and Satla Behnand get controlled by the institutions of products and run 70 percent of gradually the place of inspiration from them for south is more dangerous." the small enterprises. Yet they 'dedication' was taken by awakening the masses living in The flood of new have little or no access to land, 'profession'. It was not the remote corners of the institutions after 1980, which credit or technical support. necessary that their living Himalaya. Sairla Behn was the has certainly attracted the To highlight the fact that standard, life and work style last in this trinity of servants of youth desirous-to serve, is an women play a key role in resembled the dedicated the Himalaya to live amongst unprecedented event. The promoting food security and workers, because for us. The new crisis of roots arid sources of developing small business, a professionals it is not essential establishing pur identity, nourishment of these Latin American network of to maintain the oneness of which is confronting us today, institutions were somewhere women's groups has already personal and public Hfc. was not there in those days. else> so the place of Sarla organised two contests, in 1992 There is a tradition of We were known as the social Behn's hill lifestyle and and 1994. voluntarism in this country activists free from power and dedicated work style was taken These competitions have founded by Gautam Buddha party politics, who had by NGQs born and bred in the attracted more than 50 societies and Gandhi. They were launched non-violent struggles West; The number of these in engaged in a wide range of practical revolutionaries who to.solve the burning problems the Himalaya is in the activities, from agricultural wanted to bring total change iii of society. hundreds, but in thousands all production to agro-processing, the system. In his daily prayers, The Chinese aggression in over the countryi distribution and marketing. Gandhi used to say, "Oh Lord, 1962 drew the country's (These) NGOs are One award-winning group give me strength and eagerness attention towards the security functioning as supplementary from central Ecuador's to identify myself with the of the northern borders. One of to the governments and Tungurahua Province was common masses of India." This the defence measures wasorganisations like the World ; rewarded for successful is the source of sustenance of the Bank. They have played the khadi village industries and cultivation of highland crops social activist. In the Himalayan same role in extending the other constructive activities. To and fodder on terraced Jand, scene, where both poverty and sphere pfjnfluence of state carry on these activities a and using indigenous organic suffering are pert of life, power as was played by the group of institutions and their farming techniques. adoption of the standard of life Church in the Medieval Age. paid workers eajne. Though it Another award went to an of the common people is a Being part of the had no effect upon the small indigenous women's milling practical necessity. establishment* they get group of activists inspired by and baking group from Peru's It should not be difficult to finances from the government, Sarla Behn, she became central highlands, which decide whether we are and suspicious about the future* the governments of the fconcocts nutritious candy bars She said, "We shall fight the rich countries now distribute from local cereals, protein-rich ideological invasion money through these to the

     1995 HIMAL

rJGOs> or voluntary agencies,

or workers of the extraction-of medidna] herbs, Legislation Garidhi-Buddha lineage. There hunt of wild animals, arid declaring , natural hundreds of is a need for;minihg. With the groWing resources as national life-workers in the Himalaya demand for water and: property has been forced who by identifying themselves electrieity, upon them. These are with the common people may cbnstructionio? dams first exported in tfie name of worship the living idols and began in the foothills arid now national interest. The local make themselves confident has been extended to the people do not get water about their bright future. middle Hi rna] aya. The for drinking and irrigation, The development policy government s are promoting but it is exported 300 km whose goal is economic: growth luxury tourism in the Himalaya, away to abig city and to regards nature as a commodity. which is 'regarded as eco^ It believes in squeezing grow cash crops like friendly; For. this,air Strips arid everything out of it. With the sugarcane; qi Drohmo" peak (6100m) up five-star hotel s are being coris tf Who elsewtfl care a.bout extension of the means of the Kangpachen valley. ucted. People are beirigejected these issues if the voluntary transport, there is not a single - None of the peaks, named from thelirnitM flat land. This orga ni sat ions 'arid' the workers corner of the Himalaya left; above are open to climbers". is a conspiracy to demoralise do not awaken the people where nature has not been If Nepal's climbing the people; against these disastrous invaded by development in the regulations do not make sense, Mountain people activities, which are alluring form of felling of trees or and if they actually have the are freedom-loving by nature, the people with immediate :effect of retarding the growth he climbing accident that but the centralised system has gairts? There is no alternative of elimbing-activities, powerful tookll lives on Pisang T robbed them of this freedom. except direct action... agencies like the DAV should Peak last November (see Himal be in the forefront of trying to Six days later,, ?they were Nov/Dec 1994) had the value change those regulations, not what constitutes a 'peak'. flouting them. Clandestine Climbing However, no matter how It is intriguing that no of raking up matters that have inexplicit, the rules encompass scheduled to have climbed the eyebrows were raised in the gone unaddressed in the past. all hittiaJchuli,of snowy peaks> 6200m ThorungRL Ministry of Tourism or the Among the many issues that of Nepal, In their press note N^IA over the years that the' the Pisang accident threw up A look at DAV's glossy released in Kathmandu after DAV has been conducting was the open flouting of tour Catalogue for 1995 reveals the tragedy, the company clandestine climbing. It Nepal's climbing regulations that it plans to continue Deiitscher Alperiverein (PAV) required a tragedy of massive by agencies in the business. offering itineraries that are not Summit Club indicated proportions for the public gaze The Pisang incident indicates in conformity with the law of that :they had been selling the to skim even momentarily over that the government is prepar-the land. On a 24-day trek to same itinerary for at least ten issues important to the healthy ed to iopk the other way while the Langtang region, clients years. growth of guided some trek agencies take their can climb Yala Peak (5520m), Neither Rambrung nor mountaineering in the country. clients up pretty much any Big Surja Peak (5144rn> and Thprang Ri appear on the long The open disregard for peak that catches their fancy. Small Surja Peak (5000m). ?list of 141 peaksoperito Nepal's mountaineering The ill-fated group of Another trek of similar length foreign expeditions, including regulations shows insensitivity climbers that tumbled down to Khurnbu offers a chance to the 18 'lesser peaks' tinder the towards the host country. At the icy slopes of the northwest top SanuTaboche (53QSm>. purview of the Nepal the same time, it causes face of Pisang had a 24-day The round-Manasuiu trek Mountaineering Association massive loss of revenue to a trek itinerary which included includes Larky a PeakNorth (NMA) of which Pisang is one, country that seeks to earn climbing of Pisang and two (6065m) arid Saitido Peak Climbing any unopened peak income from mountain tourism other peaks, both of which (5100m). If one is climbing is illegal under Nepali law. as one Of its few resources. have not been 'opened' by His Parchamo, an 'NMA peak' in It might be argued that There are sure to be other Majesty's Government. Eight Rolwaling Himal, Yalung Ri is Rambrung is not a peak of overseas tour agencies as Well days before tackling Pisang, provided as a bonus. The real substance arid Thoning Ri is who are quietly applying the the group had climbed highlight of the 24^day trek to frequently tackted even by modus operand! of DAV. The Rambrung peak (4440m), Yalijng Glacier in the individual trekkers on the way; German operator just got ostensibly for acclimatisation. Kanchenjunga region is ?he over the Thpnjng La to caught in the act. It is now up climb of 52Q0m-high Itamze Muktiriath. And it is true that to the Nepali authorities to peak. Similarly, a 31-day trek neither the Tourism Act nor wake up, and either change the to Kanchenjutiga Base Camp the mountaineering laws or apply them. culminates with the climbing regulations explicitly define -Basanta Thapa

HIMAL January/February 1995

    the? 1970s, when the hippies

    arrived at Kuta beach, and later

    when unmarried Balinese

    coupies started to live together, but f or theGrace of and when boys started to work Lord Pashupatinath as gigolos in the 1980s, New Goes tKe Himalaya concerns also arose: drugs, the

    commercialisation of art for the hat to do: when tourists'sake, and problems / the.;eyer-expanding tide of with tourists entering temples tourism thieateiis to swamp the to'witness'rituals. core of one's culture? In Nepal, The Baliriese regional where visitors are allowed to government reacted with photograph funeral pyres regulations: Nude sunbathing close-up as a touristic draw, was prohibited, and citizens this is a question that is not were exhorted to preserve eyisrt asked, leave alone tradition as the final fortress addressed. The Hindu against the impact of the Indonesian island of Bali, Western way of life. At the however, has seen it all before; same time, the locals seem to How Bali has fought and has have maintained their ritual and adjusted to the tourism traditional activities if only because this attracted visitors^ educational rpr budding In major tourist areas such as tourism-and>culture activists in Kuta, the Balinese New Year, " Kathrnandu government goes com mil nist ?nd hi-tech. the Himalaya. Nyepi, is strictly observed; Thus, Both Karl Marx and Deputy; Prime Minister Madhav Kumar Fears that tourism would outside culture seems to have Nepal look the other way as Nepal's new Mnister of Communi-cause basic changes to Balinese touched, but not penetrated, the cations Pradeep Nepal keys in vital data into his Apple society have been around for core of Balinese life. PowerBook during a Parliamentary Board Meeting of (he Fears that tourism would long,reportsTWpf Features. :Communist Party of Nepal (United Marxist-Leninist) in [ The anxiety was heightened Kathitian-du, Nepal. (Editors' note:five Nepa/s in-brie sentence is a in record.)

equally baffled by this prpfusjorr of nairtes and

    ', W.KfresM^

    sheer ftustfation, i-wrbte, fThe najne' Kanchenjpnga (however ft

    may be spelled) js fairly, familiar.?' In fact in his,book oF.nearly 400

    pages; he avbided cdntroyersyvby not even attempting fo *xpkin


    H.HRi%|ey, in The Gazetteer of Sikkim (1894), writes, 'Tn the 5

    mountains ^nd passes we .have-such names as Kanchihjingna

    '^ :png-di^,"grWfsnow.''/T^2^,."^ l

    legend has 'ftthere are five[treasures fe) be found in' the mountain;: ::?ng^(hm^^-}^^Tp^^^J^''^^^r^^^'l^^?^ but itmay have referenc<*to thefivepeaks formingthe moun^in." - :

    ??'..' -A>.v elaborate,exglafiarion with minor Va fiat ioifis irj Gepgra^hkally,B^ncriertji4ng Nepal'and: Sil*:im for a short ;interpretationand speptig is gi^'en byjGolvL. A. Waddell inAmong' distant Mowever, the world Of tourismrecognises it as the "tfeJtimnltyas U&V); which Teads* ^'The highest peak :mouiitainotl^tjeeling,smcethey^ew of the elongated; massif ::oi Kariehartjunga and the true summit (28156 ft), is called" by from, this; hill town is rr\agnificertUy jifisurpassedi Tlie people of the Tibetans, The Repository of Gold', This name, it seems to ::I)arjeeling are given to referring to the mountain as hamro rne,iias ? .arisek ftpntfjieir(terpT^at|Qnt>t.t^ :: J^/^flLlTi;^ five summit of Kari<heriju:ngaaretpDarjeeling wrjat intco Hteraland mytrtQlogicalmahner^The na-me^Kanchanjuhga is Ehafara is to Kaihmandu; or Tashicho Dzong to Tibetan and means; JiteraUy, 'The Five Repositories of the iQreat ph .. , v :Glaciers/..and it is physicaliy descriptive of the-nyepeaks., Whea,- :: ?; Asiftakingihecue from itsim'ult,iplepeaks,Karichenjungahas however^ rhepatron saint of Sifekim wrote the manual for wbtship* :endowed with as many forms Of spelling, nurnerpus etlinic for this mountain-god Jte converted, these five 'reposijtories' fet? names, and their equally abundant interpistations. Schoi!ar,s f real Storehouses, of thc"gQd's,.treasures,.. la this way t^e Ibjftaest haye n^ only, been ^azzted^ :S

    Jmary/Fabwaiy 1S95 HtMAL

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