LEARN TO SCULPT
A MINIATURE BREAKFAST
IN 1:12 SCALE
WITH IGMA FELLOW
; Premo? Polymer Clay, Half A Bbar Each
- Cadmium Yellow (Or Any Medium Yellow)
- Orange (Just A Teeny Tiny Bit)
- Burnt Umber (Or A Chocolate Brown)
- Alizarin Crimson (A Dark Purplish Red, almost Like Burgundy Wine Colored)
; Chalk Pastel
- Golden Ochre (A Rich Deep Gold)
- Medium Brown (Just A Tiny Bit Needed)
; Delta Creative? Transparent Glass Paint (Or Any Stained Glass Paint)
; Acrylic Varnish
- Gloss (But Only If You Can’t Find Clear Stained Glass Paint)
; Sandpaper – Around 80 Grit
; Single Edge Blade
; Ceramic Tile
; Pin, Needle, Or A Pointy Toothpick
; Dried Oregano
; Small Paint Brush
; Small Cup Of Water
; Tacky Glue Or Any Glue That Dries Clear
; Hand Wipes Or Paper Towels
; Optional: A Plate To Put Your Food On
PREPARATION & COMMENTS
Before you start working with clay, please wash your hands – even if your hands look clean you’d be surprised how much dirt can be on them, and it will show up in your
white clay. I also dust my hands with cornstarch or talc powder after washing and drying
to get rid of any excess moisture, as well as bits of dust.
Preheat your oven according to your clay directions. NOTE
If you are using the new Fimo? formulation, please make sure that you check the baking temperature as this is lower than previously. If you are mixing new Fimo? with
old Fimo? you need to use the lower baking temperature, so the mix doesn’t burn!
1. We'll start with making the eggs - you will need to mix up the yolk color first. Mix a small bead of orange clay with about a ? inch (12.7mm) square chunk of yellow to make a rich egg yolk color. You can adjust the color as you wish, just don’t make it too orange.
You'll only need a little bit of the orangish yellow, so you can mix up the amount that you want using the proportions below. If you have extra just stick it in a zip lock baggie for another time.
2. Roll a snake of clay around 1/8th of an inch thick. Using your blade cut small chunks about 1/16 (1.6mm) of an inch each from the snake. Roll them into a ball. These will be your egg yolks. Don't be overly concerned about getting the measurements exact, just an approximation is fine!
3. Use your finger to flatten the yolks slightly on the tile. If the yolks come off the tile and stick to your finger, just dust your finger with some powder.
4. Put the yellow yolks to the side and wash your hands again. It's time to mix up the white clay for the 'whites' of the eggs, and we don't want yellow streaks in it. Mix about a ? inch (12.7mm) square of translucent with a bead of white as shown.
5. Roll the translucent/white mix into a snake as shown and using your blade cut off 1/16 inch (1.6mm) chunks.
The objective about the egg whites, you want them to be more on the translucent side. If you add too much white they end up being chalky looking. Most foods are extremely translucent, and that's an important part of getting them to look real!
6. Press the whites flat with your finger on the tile. They should stick to the tile, but if they stick to your finger instead just dust it with powder.
7. Press the sandpaper into the egg white to flatten it further, and put some texture into it. You might have to go over it several times before it is ready. If the white rips a bit on the edges, that’s ok. You don’t want the whites to be perfect circles. Think about how they look in a pan when you fry them. The whites run all over the place. If your clay sticks to the sandpaper, just dust it with some powder.
8. Carefully scrape the white off of your tile with your blade, and gently put it over the top of a yolk. It might help to dust your blade with a little bit of powder to help it slide under the clay.
Remember that yolks are not always centered in fried eggs, so position some yolks off to the side, and some in the center of the white. Gently press the white over the yolk so they adhere. Put a little bit of powder on your finger and very gently press the white down over the yellow yolk. See how the sand paper gives the white a nice textured appearance?
9. Notice that there’s enough translucent in the egg white so that
the yellow yolk is visible. The white has been gently pressed so that it adheres to the tile, but the yolk is nicely rounded. Don’t flatten your egg out too much, and try to keep your white as thin as possible.
10. You can also use some of your white/translucent mix to make
a few unbroken eggs for your breakfast scene. When you roll your egg shells make sure to make them with a slightly more pointed part on one end. If you'd like to make some broken shells, you can press some of the white/translucent mix on to the end of a small paint brush like this -
Baking the eggs: Bake your eggs according to your clay's baking temperature and instructions. Baking your eggs for about 20 to 25 minutes should be enough since they are so thin. When they are done, take them out to cool, but leave your oven on!
11. Onto the bacon while the eggs are baking.
You’ll start with the fat. You will want this to look a bit ‘cooked’ already; so mix a ball of translucent with a tiny bit of burnt umber clay. The ball of translucent in this picture is about the size of a ping pong ball, and the little bit of brown is about the size of a pea. Please feel free to down size the quantities, since this makes a lot of bacon fat! If you have extra just put it in a zip lock baggie and save it for later. I always have the best luck starting with the translucent and gradually adding the color until I have the right shade. The color that you end up with should look like icky, very translucent, light brown, like on the right.
12. To mix up the bacon meat color, you’ll need about equal parts of burnt umber and translucent + about half as much alizarin crimson as shown. So the ratio is about 1:1 burnt umber (dark brown)/translucent, then 2:1 burnt umber+translucent to crimson. If you don't have alizarin it's not a big deal, you can use any dark red or even a more reddish red, just add the red color slowly to get the color you're looking for. You can refer to 'real' bacon for a reference.
13. Next, you will make a layered cane. To start – flatten out a
piece of the fat color, about as long as the first joint on your finger, (I’m terrible at
measuring, but about 1.25” would be fine for now, that’s around .3cm).
Enlarge picture showing how to begin making the cane
14. This is about 3/8ths of an inch or around .75cm. You don’t have to be exact since we’re going to be reducing this.
15. Now flatten out a strip of the red meat color, big enough to fit on top of the slab of fat.
16. Like this! Notice how I’m not being exceptionally neat, it’s not a big deal for this cane since bacon is not straight.
17. Flatten out a slightly thinner layer of fat and layer this on top of the meat color.
Again, don’t worry about being too neat about it.
18. Here’s where you can get a little bit creative with your layering to make your bacon look real with chunks of meat running through the fat instead of just making stripes. For this layer, I formed the meat colored clay into a sort of long tear drop shape, only about half as wide as the clay slab. The layering doesn't have to be perfect because you will be adding texture and color later.
19. Here you can see that I have added the same sized strip of fat colored clay beside meat clay. This will make up the 4th layer, half of it will be 'meat' color, and half will be 'fat' color. The 'fat' color clay should be a little bit tapered on one
side so it fits over the 'meat'.
20. Cover up the meat part with another piece of the fat colored clay. Then you can put one more thin layer of meat color clay on, as the top layer, (reference the arrow). That should be about enough. You don’t want the bacon to look
21. This is the cane with the last piece of meat colored clay on top. I didn't cover the entire top of the cane with the brown/red clay, just about 3/4ths of it. To reduce the bacon cane - You can start reducing this right away, you don’t have to let it
sit and cool off (unless your clay is really mushy, then just pop it in the fridge for a few minutes). We want this cane to be long and thin so gently press the cane with your thumbs all over the length, being sure to use equal pressure all over, and gradually lengthen it by gently pulling it apart as shown. By pressing and gently pulling your clay, this will move the way you want it to. Go slowly! If you reduce it too fast it might get smaller than you want it. Also, if the cane starts looking too wide (we want to keep it around the width of your index finger) you can gently press the sides back into shape and continue to lengthen it).
22. Here's what it looks like from the side as you reduce the cane.
23. When it’s about .5” wide (around 1.7cm) and 3/16 inch (.7cm thick) you’re done. Cut into the center of the cane, and it should look something like this. Don’t panic if it doesn’t look exactly the same. Even a remote approximation is going to work out just fine!!
24. Time to slice it up! If your clay is warm, you might want to wait on this for a few minutes. You can also put your cane in the freezer to firm it up before you cut it. You want nice thin slices. Slice up as many as you want. I always make more than I think I need because I usually wind up ripping some, and generally goofing up. Even if you get a partial slice, that’s fine, we can use it!!! Try to get them as thin as you can!